Welcoming the World: Modernist Hotels in West Africa

The middle of the Twentieth Century saw the independence of most countries on the African continent. Those euphoric times brought forward-looking sentiments and a wish to break with the past. Modernism, as an architectural movement, was ideal for the day, and newly independent countries had extensive building programs to assert themselves as fully functioning nations.

Hotels are one type of building that illustrates the complex architectural and political history of the times. Some were built specifically to host international delegations, others to boost tourism, while some were built as strong leaders' wishes. Although a marginal building type, several hotels across Africa stand as physical records of important parts of their respective country's history.

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Hotel Independence, Dakar. Image © Iwan Baan

Like many building types of the period, hotels were not considered old enough for preservation. Some were neglected completely while some were renovated insensitively such that they became no longer recognisable. A few were well-maintained or refurbished appropriately and respecting their initial design intents. The original hotel projects, and any later renovations, tell a story of the respective nation's history, its leadership, and its relationship with other countries. This first of two articles will study a few hotel buildings in West Africa.


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Hotel Independence

The Hotel Independence in Dakar, Senegal, is an apt place to start not least because of its name. It sits prominently on Independence Square in the capital city of Senegal and was designed by the office of Henri Chomette, a French architect who found his calling in Africa and completed projects in 23 countries on the continent. This extensive career in Africa started when he won a competition to design a palace for the Ethiopian emperor in 1948, although it was never built. The design of the Hotel Independence expresses several of Chomette's typical approaches to architecture – it is thoroughly modern but uses local materials and crafts. The deep 'hoods' over the windows block out the harsh sunlight and their repetition on the façade gives the hotel its distinctive appearance.

The hotel also exemplifies the principle of Asymmetric Parallelism. This principle was championed by the first president of Senegal, Léopold Sédar Senghor. Perhaps uniquely within Africa, Senegal's first leader who happened to be a poet, emphasized the importance of culture as a means to unify the new nation and break with the colonial past. Perhaps the most notable example of how Asymmetric Parallelism was interpreted in architecture is the Foire International de Dakar. Despite the successful architecture of the Hotel Independence, however, a major renovation and extension completely stripped it of its architectural features, and it is now unrecognizable.

Ducor Hotel

Another hotel that may or may not escape this fate stands on a prominent hilltop, stripped of most of its walls and windows. The once glamorous Ducor Hotel in Monrovia, Liberia, was the first five-star hotel in West Africa. It is situated on a hill overlooking the city with spectacular views, and the site still attracts visitors despite the hotel being closed and rundown. The hotel was designed by Israeli architect-developer Moshe Meyer, and it included a swimming pool, tennis courts, and a French restaurant as well as luxurious rooms.

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Ducor Hotel, Monrovia. Image © Mark Fischer under CC BY-SA 2.0 license

For a long time, the Ducor remained West Africa's most luxurious hotel. It is said that its visitors included several national leaders. In the 1990s civil war broke out and gunmen were stationed in the hotel. It remained abandoned after peace returned and was settled by squatters. In the mid-2000s there were efforts to refurbish it to its former glory with Libyan investors. With the uprising in Libya in 2011, the project was canceled and the hotel today remains a ruin.

The Ducor Hotel tracks aspects of the history of Liberia, which has a unique history in West Africa as it was a state established by freed slaves from the United States. Nonetheless, change was in the air in the 1960s when many of its neighbors were gaining independence from the European powers, and the Ducor was constructed in that period. Israel was a relatively new country seeking partners on the African continent which were becoming new voting members of the United Nations, and several projects linked with Israel can be found in West Africa.

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Ducor Hotel, Monrovia. Image © Mark Fischer under CC BY-SA 2.0 license

Hotel Ivoire

One of the visitors to the Ducor Hotel was the president of Côte d'Ivoire, Félix Houphouët-Boigny. The positive impression he had led him to commission its architect to undertake a similar oeuvre in his home country's then capital Abidjan. The architects involved were Heinz Fenchel, Thomas Leitersdorf, and William Pereira. Thus, the Hotel Ivoire came to be and it was constructed in three phases. The first phase included 200 hotel rooms in a thirteen-storey tower attached to a plinth containing the lobby and restaurant. The second phase included an additional 25-story tower with more hotel rooms and conference facilities on the top floors. Finally, the plaza at the foot of the tower gained a conference center in the third phase.

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Hotel Ivoire, Abidjan. Image © Iwan Baan
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Hotel Ivoire, Abidjan. Image © abdallahh under CC Attribution 2.0 Generic license

The Hotel Ivoire was the first part of what was meant to be a giant seaside tourist development known as the African Riviera, which was never constructed. Nonetheless, the hotel remains one of the most luxurious hotels in Africa, deeply associated with Côte d'Ivoire's independence and subsequent economic successes. Its physical appearance today is one of the geometric volumes in stark white concrete panels. Whilst the purist assembly of forms is clearly Modernist, the hotel is not devoid of ornaments. Interior walls and entrance canopies are adorned with bas-relief artwork, sited appropriately, and framed by the building's structural elements.

The Hotel has not retained its splendor continuously since construction. It suffered becoming rundown in the 1990s when, like the Ducor Hotel, it was in the middle of conflict and troops stationed themselves there. What is seen today is a result of a refurbishment project in the early 21st century that sensitively rejuvenated the building's original design, reopening its doors in 2011, and becoming a shining example of how modern heritage can be considered and appreciated.

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Hotel Ivoire, Abidjan. Image © abdallahh under CC Attribution 2.0 Generic license

Together, the Hotel Ivoire along with the Hotel Independence and the Ducor present a small sample of just three buildings showing how hotels have tracked architectural developments and historical events in African countries. Their status is varied with some falling into disrepair, some being altered beyond recognition, and a few being respectfully restored, but each tells a complex story that connects the Modernist movement in Africa with the ambitions of emerging nations across the continent.

This article is part of an ArchDaily series called "Rediscovering Modernism in Africa." Many buildings from the Modern Movement in Africa are of high architectural quality. Despite being several decades old and historically important, they have only recently gained attention in international discussions. This series explores this rich history. As always, at ArchDaily, we greatly appreciate our readers' contributions. If you have a project you think should be featured, please submit your suggestions.

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Cite: Mohieldin Gamal. "Welcoming the World: Modernist Hotels in West Africa" 20 Oct 2024. ArchDaily. Accessed . <https://www.archdaily.com/1022286/welcoming-the-world-modernist-hotels-in-west-africa> ISSN 0719-8884

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